Saturday, February 8, 2014

Day 5: Don't mind if I Pompidou!

We began the day lazily, sore again due to our rock hard bed. We decided it was time to do some washing so we went to the local self serve laundromat and the fun really begun. Trying to work out how the laundry powder came out as well as figuring out how to put a load on was a 45 min exercise. We finally figured it out, after me running down to the supermarket to get some ldry powder, and got the washing going. I walked down to the Boulangerie 'bakery' and got us some pastries and a panini for breakie while we waited. Sitting in the laundry waiting for the washing to dry, watching the world go by outside as we read a book and drank our juice made us start to feel like locals here; albeit ones that take 3/4 of an hour to operate a washing machine.


It was now after midday and we headed out over the Seine to the right bank of Paris to the Chatelt & Les Halle's area. One of the things I'm loving about Paris is how the river is very much apart of your daily journey. You seem to cross it or be near it throughout the day. 


We spotted one of the old original art nouveau Metro station entrances and got some photos. Heading further into the Les Halle's area we see a new station and large public library being constructed, not too far from the Pompidou Centre. It looks like it will be another iconic modern insertion into the Paris streetscape.

We stroll the streets looking at all the food shops and fashion stores and get to a famous bakery called Stohrer. It's filled with lots of mouth watering stuff. Walking into these place you just wish you could say I'll have one of everything. We buy a baguette and some pastries and make our way back to Notre Dame. 




On the way we stop by the Pompidou and take some pictures. Sim asks if it's still being built, but I tell her it was completed 40 years ago. It's an interesting building - a real counterpoint in a city like Paris I guess. Sims not a fan however. Me, I'm on the fence. It's very utilitarian but I appreciate it for what it does at an urban level more so than aesthetic level. The good thing is the gallery is open til 9 so we can come back later. 


We make our way to Notre Dame, passing via the Hotel de Ville, which has a temporary ice rink setup in front if it as well as a merry go round. It's quite a nice spot in the winter sun. The sun is out and shining today and it's a pleasant winters walk through Paris. 

Heading over the Pont d'Arcole we arrive back at Notre Dame. At 3 o'clock on the first Friday of every month the Holy Crown known as Ste-Couronne (the alleged wreath of thorns placed on Jesus' head before he was crucified) is displayed. We wander through the treasury of Notre Dame, looking at all the golden challis' and heavily jeweled crucifixes that have been used in masses here. 

At 3pm on the dot, a procession of priests make their way out if the treasury and around the cathedral. It's a cast of about 50 accompanying the holy crown which sits aloft on a red pillow. We are ushered to the side of the walkway and watch as the procession goes around and up onto the altar. We get a good glimpse of the crown. The crown itself is a thick golden thing, elaborately adorned. I dare say it's not the one Jesus would have worn, but a powerful symbol nonetheless. 

We watch part of the service and it's a humbling experience being in this mighty cathedral with organs playing and so many people attending a service. 
We leave and make our way over to the other island, Ile St Louis, for the ice cream we couldn't find the other day. 
On the way Sim asks to carry the backpack for a while to give me a break, however her cape like jacket means she has to wear the bag under her jacket. When she put it on I burst into laughter. She asked why I was laughing, I said you look like the Hunchback of Notre Dame. See below. 

One of the interesting things I've learned is that Notre Dame was in decay and ruin and almost demolished, only to be saved due to the profile and interest of Victor Hugo's book the Hunchback of Notre Dame. It's quite amazing to think a novel can save a building and what's more make it one of the worlds most famous!

We finally got to the famous Maison Berthillon ice cream shop. The one we went to the other day that was closed was not the real place. We since found out that many others sell the ice cream but aren't the real place. But, it was worth the wait. We ordered some coffees and hot chocolate as well as two scoops of sorbet; passionfruit and roasted pineapple with basil. Very nice! But the best part was the Roasted pear with brioche and a scoop of salted caramel ice cream on the side. UNBELIEVABLE! Sim even said this place was better than Gelato Messina back home, and considering she practically goes there everyday that's saying something. 


We walked back over the  Seine and up the Rue de Rivoli into the 'Marais' area. I did my usual thing of saying "oh my god, I can't believe how good that (insert any food here) was, amazing". Sim was like, yeah I know, you've said it already. 
We window shopped for a while and I bought another pair of shoes. Sim finally found a puppy clothing store for some clothes for Duster, however they were outrageously expensive , so we're sorry buddy, but nothing for Duster as yet!

We made it back to the Pompidou Centre just before sunset. Entering the building and going up the external tubular escalators is a pleasurable experience. I must say, the planning and architectural ideas in this place are quite amazing. I like that as you make your way up to the upper galleries you engage with the wider city and it's roofscape, a work of art in itself.



We start off at the top of the building, taking photos of the view before wandering through one of the travelling exhibitions on Surrealist Objects. Sim and I are both very interested as there are a lot of sculptures and assemblages by Man Ray, Marcel Duchamp, Dali and Max Ernst as well as Picassos famous bull. It was a very intriguing look at one of the most unconventional and provocative art movements of the 20th century. 

We make our way down to the floor below to the permanent exhibitions 1905-1970 modem art. This is our favourite art period, anything from 1860-1960
It's a nice experience wandering the gallery in the evening, there's a calmness and sense of ease about the place. We both really enjoyed the diversity of things on display, not just paintings and sculpture, but all facets of design, graphic, print, furniture and architectural models, drawings and projects. 
We head down to the floor below to the contemporary art section, kinda like our MCA. It's interesting stuff, although it's all very intellectual and thought provoking. Very interactive and experiential art. Art as object is very much questioned it seems in contemporary art. 

After a good 3 hours wandering the gallery, and 5 full on days of wandering Paris, our feet are sore and bodies exhausted! 


We head out for some dinner to a typical French bistro/diner called La Tambour in the heart of the right bank district. It's warm and homely inside. 

We start off with a charcuterie plate and some (lots of) bread. Dinner is a hearty meal and a huge portion. The delicious red wine helps it all go down however. We sit and relax in the bistro for a couple of hours, as it's warm and we need a rest. Dessert was a tasty tarte tartin with cream. Perfect!

It's our last night in Paris (for now) as we head off to the alps tomorrow.
Looking forward to some rest on the train trip down.


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