Day 18: A Wet Champs Élysées

We began our final day of the trip fittingly on the same Final stage of Le Tour de France - the Champs-Élysées!

As seems to always be the case whenever we visit a famous landmark, it's having work done to it and partially covered in scaffolding.

After a cheap breakie we headed down, up and then up into the Arche de Triomphe, where we climbed the 280 odd spiral staircase up to the museum and upper viewing terrace. It's quite a nice experience inside the Arche, and the museum has a nice solemnity about it. There's some interesting sculptures and information on its history. Quite insightful.

I must say I always have a laugh at these collectsble coin machines. They look like poker machines whenever I see them, with all their colored lights, which is funny because you see them in Notre Dame, or here for instance and I always think ... 'why is there a poker machine here?' So out if place!

The best part  of the Arche de Triomphe however is the view at the top. Looking out over the precarious balustrades you get a good feel of the layout of Paris below you, particularly the 12 avenues that stem from this huge roundabout. It's quite captivating watching the traffic play out out around the Arche from here...some cars just seem to do laps, weirdly!

 

I love the formal axis it creates with the louvre and La Defense. It's a real spine to the city!

The work being done on the Arche means we can't access half the upper terrace, but we still manage to get some view of the Eiffel Tower. Today it's top is shrouded in cloud, which is pretty cool. It makes it seem taller in a way!

We venture back down underneath the Arche, (stopping in the gift shop prior). At the bottom we pause for a moment at the tomb of the unknown soldier.  At ground level the traffic driving around you seems even more chaotic, it's amazing how they figure it out and people end up anywhere!

We head for a brisk stroll down the champs élysées, as it's sprinkling with rain and let's face it, where at the end of our holiday so most of these shops are out of our price range! Lots if window shopping!

The facade of this pharmacy/newsagent is quite a standout along the more traditional boulevard. The width if this street is crazy. You really have to marvel at the vision of urban planners of times gone by. To think streets like this can still exist and be what they're today and the difference from when they're were created, it's quite incredible foresight.

We wander past many of the big name stores, including the famous macaron place, Laduree.

Venturing off the champs élysées to the shopping streets to the north, we pass some interesting art and furniture stores. This lion-lady marble statue takes the cake for me. What an ugly piece of expensive rubbish! To think someone will have a pair of these at their front gate is horrifying enough; let alone how much they'll have to pay for it. Bizarre!

After passing many a big name fashion store, we cannot seem to find the Chloe boutique for Simone, (still no success on the handbag front by the way). We wander down the Place de la Concorde, where the obelisk stands and where Mary Antoinette was guillotined. From here you get a great view back up the champs élysées as well as a wider view of all the towers and domed roofs of the monumental buildings around!

I take a couple of minutes just to stop and watch from afar this young teenage kid try to get money out of tourists by pretending to find a gold ring on the ground and offer it to them as a gift. It's a weird plan to get a couple of euros but he eventually gets one big guy to take the ring. The kid walks away and the big guy looks confused! The kid returns about 10 seconds later asking for some money in return! If I could read lips I'm sure the big guy told him to farçon...or maybe it was something else. Still I found it entertaining, although slightly sad and pitiful watching this kid try it on the next batch of tourists and then the next. 

He needs a better scam I reckon!

We wander back into the place de la Madeline and then up to place Saint Augustin, where we stop at a bistro for lunch! The prevalence of the triangular street blocks and broad avenues gives a feeling of ubiquity to everywhere you go, and it's easy to become disorientated.

For entree I decided it was now or never to try the snails do I ordered  6 of the best escargot burgundy!

The snails tasted quite meaty actually, with a very earthy, rich flavour. They're ok, but not amazing and for something quite small and delicate I wouldn't be ordering it again. Still worth a try!

I must say however that I did enjoy the whole fanfare that came with the snails. Eating them is like a surgical procedure!

For our main plates, Simi had the French Classic croc-Monsieur (basically a toasted Ham cheese sandwich with a lot of cheese...very cheesy...did I mention it had cheese!) I had a beef Bourgogne (burgundy) which was delicious with the red wine and the bread you get with every meal in France. Yummo!

We wandered back up to the Opera district where Printemps and Galleries Lafayette are. We spent some time again looking closely at all the handbags and wallets. Sadly, it doesn't look like Sim will find something that she both likes and can afford! (It's very expensive here)

When we left the department stores it was drizzling. Having all but given up on finding a handbag for herself, Simi suggested doing something else. So we decided to catch the metro across town and check out the Parisien bourgeois-bohemian scene at Canal St-Martin. We got off at metro stop Republique and walked to the canals. Sadly due to the rain there wasn't many people on the streets as it was quite miserable, however it was quite an interesting little nook of Paris. There seemed to be lots of designer and creative studio/workspaces around working out of garage like buildings. A bit Newtownish!

This mural on the side of a building was really cool!

It was now after 4pm in the arvo and the rain really had dampened our adventurous spirit so we decided to head back to the apartment. Sadly, no handbag for Simi , however our bank balance just breathed a huge sigh of relief!

We walked for a while thinking we were heading back to the metro at Republique, however ended up at Gare de l'Est in completely the opposite direction. This city does that to you. It's disorientating at times in its familiarity!

On the metro back a busker came into the carriage and busted out into a really bad rendition of the ol' busker classic Redemption Song by Bob Marley! It's happened a few times now. Yesterday there was a whole 4 piece band on the train and a few days earlier a woman doing very bad Joan Baez style folk tunes! Simi made the comment that back home this would not happen on our trains - 'people would lose their sh.t! ' too right!!!

For dinner I learnt my lesson from last night and made a reservation at the restaurant up the road. Last night when we tried for a table it was too busy. 

L'Aubergeade is the place, a small family run fusion French bistro that's relatively inexpensive. We googled restaurants nearby on Tripadvisor and this one came in at 159 of 11,800or so places to eat in Paris, so we liked those odds. What's more it's literally across the road from where we are staying so Simi doesn't have to be in the cool night air for too long with here chesty cough!

I've taken to calling her Coughy Anan, she didn't appreciate the gag !

For entree I took the opportunity to have my last taste of foie gras for a while. I've really taken to that stuff! It's quite a good flavour combo with salad, prosciutto and citrus dressing.

Our mains were very meaty. Simi had a lamb shank with couscous and I had veal kidneys (exotic tastes as per usual). The food was delicious and lived up to the hype and reviews of the place. The wine was going down well and the atmosphere was great. The best part was the owner and his son, who spoke English and practically guided us through the menu when we ordered, which was very helpful. He really went out of his way for us. We both made the comment at dinner that most French people we've met on our trip have been very obliging and friendly, which has made our travels a whole lot of fun!

For dessert we ended with a bang, with a flaming bombalaska type dish doused in rum and ignited , as well as an apple crumble. Both were nice although I loved the "omelette Norvégienne de la maison" as it was called on the menu - basically a home made bombalaska! Awesome!

The owner kept checking if we were happy and everytime we just said 'Oui' and gave a thumbs up! 

Thumbs up indeed!

It was a good meal and experience to end our travels on. Fine food and wine,  good hospitality and great atmosphere. But most importantly we enjoyed it together, which has been great the whole way through! 

Bonsoir everyone / we're off to the airport early in the morning and back home Saturday night! 

Hope you enjoyed the journey as much as we did!

Au revoir

Day 17: Montmartre & The Marais

We began the day by heading out on the metro to Montmartre. We caught the train to a rather 'dingy' part of Paris and walked up to Sacre Cour. It was sprinkling with rain and overcast skies above. We had a rather unpleasant experience of being harassed to buy bracelets at the bottom of the stairs up to the Basillica. These men were doing it to all the tourists that walked up, trying to force they're crap onto you and then ask for money. It's rather unpleasant.

The Basillica itself is quite stunning however. Even on a cloudy day. I love how it stands tall above the city, everpresent! It's not very old in the European scale of time. A little over 100years old.

The view from the forecourt over the city is quite something also.

I particularly like the domes of this building. They are a nice change from many other cathedrals and Basillicas we've seen.

After wandering inside and around for a bit, we wandered down the hill (and more steps) into Montemarte itself. It's alive with fresh food stores; grocers, butchers, fish mangers, and of course bakers. It's quite a nice scene. We stop here for some breakfast at an organic cafe (fancy) 

The coffee was good however, and the bread Simi had was amazing!

We also came across the cafe Les Deux Moulins, the one from the movie Amelie. Simi quite liked that!

After breakfast we wandered the streets some more, and came across another of the original Metro railway entrances with the porch awning.

To sims displeasure, we then headed back up the hill (which meant a lot more steps) to the place du Terte, a small public square filled with amateur and local painters painting in the street. It was a bit touristy but still had a nice convivial atmosphere about it.

I like that the domes and spires of Sacre Cour keep popping up in between little alleyways and vistas. It really seems to bring the place together somehow.

There's some cute little old streets that take you back to a time gone by.

We come across an old vineyard called Clos Montmarte, the only remaining vineyard in the centre of Paris.quite cool really.

Nearby is the famous cabaret show house Au Lapin Agile, a tiny old building where Cabaret has been performed for over 100 years. 

We make our way down to Rue Lepic, where we stumble across the two remaining windmills in the area. Quite an interesting site to see in an urban setting.

Time for some more baked goods - I just can't get enough. Cannot resist whenever I pass a shop window with so many delicious looking treats. Yum!

We end up back on the street where the Moulin Rouge is. It's funny how you seem to stumble across things in Paris. You just wander down one steet and turn left into another and then before you know it you've ended up in front of another famous landmark. 

It's early afternoon and we hop on the metro and head out to Porte de La Villette, close to the periphery of the city. It's one of the revitalized industrial areas of the city that was turned into parkland and cultural precinct in the 80s.

There's some rather distinctive red buildings, which are mainly follies (purely structures) within the landscape, designed by architect Bernard Tschumi.

The park is pretty bleak and inactive. Granted it's winter and it's a school day, but there's not much happening here and it seems a bit unsuccessful in creating a vibrant parkland space.

The science museum is located near by. It's an interesting building, sunken below the park level and surrounded by a moat of water. There's bridges and multiple levels coming out of this place everywhere. It's a bit random.

There's so much space here and no one it! It has a touch of the Darling Harbour/ Tumbalong Park vibe of 5 years ago about it!

After a wander around Parc de Villette for an hour or so, we make our way back into the heart of town on the Metro to Chatelet. Simi is keen to visit another French dog clothes shop for Duster.

However when we get to the address it's now a cupcake store (not a bad thing I guess)! We stop by at a nearby Gelato store called Pozzetto for a rest from walking, oh...and to eat some gelato.

We ask the owner and discover that the dog clothing shop closed about a year ago. Sorry again duster! It's not to be.

However the gelato here is really good!!!

We stroll the Marais area for a couple of hours looking at the handbag and clothes fashion stores. Window shopping mainly. Part of the area is very Jewish, and there's a large section of one street dedicated to Jewish food stores and take aways.

I can't resist one of the Falafel sandwiches at L'As Du Fallafel. They're apparently legendary. Sim reads me a funny article review on the window of the shop , talking about the size of them and how sloppy they're to eat. People can be seen trying to hide in shop front alcoves so as not to be seen devouring the sandwich. It's a funny review!

 We stroll the streets of the Marais some more - this is one of my favourite shop fronts, the shops name is very confusing! They're obviously open too ! Hilarious!

This one had a good name also. 

We stroll some more and then pop out on the boulevard where the Pompidou is (there it is again)! 

We hop on the metro and head home to the apartment to rest our feet , before heading out for some late dinner. We first try the cute little place across the road which apparently, according to the online food guides, is awesome. However it's fully booked so we go elsewhere. We end up at a traditional French Bistro down near Gare de Lyon. It's quite nice, the atmosphere in these places is great. The atmosphere is kinda like our pubs but a bit more formal dining arrangements, with waiters and more focus on meals rather than beers!

It's a nice experience at the bistro! 

[apologies: no photos as battery died en route to dinner...I know right!]

We head back to the hotel quickly to escape the cold night air for sim. It's been another busy day!